Two Dales Outliers

Looking at my map of summits to tick, there were only three left in the southern Yorkshire Dales.  Two of them were Birks Fell and Dodd Fell Hill.  I had the opportunity to tick them on previous walks but I had opted to shorten those days – one only a fortnight ago – and leave them for another time.  I decided that time was now!

Starting from Buckden a short walk to Redmire led to the bridleway which takes a diagonal line to the plateau.  I cut across to trig point on Firth Fell, serial number S5499, which is just one less than the last trig that I had visited on Yockenthwaite Moor (S5500).

Firth Fell trig point

The drystone wall past Birks Tarn led to a ruined hut that is only faintly marked on the OS Explorer map.  From there it is only a short walk to the summit cairn which can be clearly seen on the skyline.  Pen-y-ghent was the most significant mountain in view from the top and Pendle Hill could also be seen in the distance.

Pen-y-ghent

I walked to Birks Tarn and dipped my feet in before strolling along the edge of the plateau, enjoying the views over Buckden to its namesake Pike.  The descent back to Buckden on the bridleway was a steady amble to end a very pleasant walk.

I drove to the junction of Cam High Road and Oughtershaw Road from where I started out for Dodd Fell Hill.  The ground was boggy in places but I made my way alongside the wall without incident.  Heading just about true north from the wall the terrain became a bit more challenging and at one point my right leg plunged knee-deep into the bog; luckily I was wearing gaiters.

At the trig point the views were expansive with the Yorkshire Three Peaks stretching across the skyline and the Lake District fells were clearly seen, particularly the Scafells and Great Gable.

Dodd Fell Hill trig point

Pen-y-ghent and Ingleborough

the Scafells and Great Gable

Those views made up for the return walk – plenty of peat hags and a long slog along over a mile of tarmac.

The Boggiest Summit

Starting from Buckden, today’s plan was to bag a couple of Nuttalls that overlook the very pretty Wharfedale with Yockenthwaite Moor being first on the list.

I followed the Dales Way on the bank of the River Wharfe to Hubberholme before the first uphill of the day, a good track up to Scar House.  Above the intake wall I never saw another person all day.

I roughly followed a way close to the walls at the side of Strans Gill but staying out of the fenced-off areas enclosing new plantations as part of a Langstrothdale initiative.  None of the recently erected fences were marked on the map but they didn’t add any difficulty to the navigation needed to head towards the summit Yockenthwaite Moor.  The Nuttalls suggest following the wall to its end and then undertake some bog-hopping among the peat hags but I had aimed off and took a more direct route towards the top.  As I neared the trig point in the mist, the hags just to the east assumed a formidable obstacle.  Taking a straight route was impossible and it was a serious challenge to keep my feet dry and avoiding plunging into the peat.  I reached the trig point without much incident but the Nuttalls’ assessment that this is “the boggiest hill in Yorkshire” appeared to have some merit.

Yockenthwaite Moor trig point

Leaving the top and negotiating some more peat hags I took aim for the small building marked on the map.  This turned out to be an abandoned shepherd’s bothy with no roof but it otherwise appeared to be a sturdy structure on an isolated and windswept hillside.  It is worth noting that an approach to the summit directly from the south rather than from the east would be a little more enjoyable and easier on the feet.

I continued to the group of four tarns marked on the Ordnance Survey’s Explorer map only to find them completely dry.  I managed to take some screenshots of my GPS track showing me having walked through the two biggest!

I descended past a limestone crag and having dropped out of the mist I could see the way ahead, up Hagg Beck towards Birks Fell.  This was my plan at the start of the day but I couldn’t steel myself to take on another sizeable slope uphill, especially into the murk, so I decided to leave that summit for another day.

The Dales Way back to Hubberholme was a very pleasant low-level walk with upper Wharfedale showing off its charms with various some falls within the river.  Perhaps I should consider the Dales Way as a route once my legs get too old for the hills!

Three Final Fellrangers

 This was my first outing of 2020 as lockdown restrictions relaxed after the initial effects of the COVID-19 pandemic decreased.  It was quite easy to choose an objective as the Fellrangers list had been updated by their compiler Mark Richards.  Three new summits had been added to the Cicerone guidebooks as a result of the expansion of the Lake District National Park towards the Lune Gap of the M6. 

looking north through the Lune Gap

Overlooking the Westmorland Borrowdale, Grayrigg Forest, Whinfell Beacon and Winterscleugh were the new summits on the list.  I had already completed the original list of 227 but I wanted to tick these three fells so that I could still claim a completion.

From the Hause Bridge layby on the A685 I started up the ridge that separates Little Coum from Great Coum.  This was quite boggy low down but as the slope steepened to what looked like a green plod it turned out to be an incline of hidden rocks with the gaps filled in with vegetation; this is not a slope to be descended unless quite a bit of care is taken.

Great Coum and Grayrigg Forest

There were a number of minor summits at the top of the ridge on Grayrigg Pike but I decided to follow the path to the first Fellranger of the day – Grayrigg Forest.  From the trig point the radio masts were clear to see and I strolled along the broad ridge towards them and continued over boggy ground to Whinfell Beacon.  I tapped the top of the cairn and stood on the small mound that was the true highpoint and carried on across Whinfell Common, passing between the multiple summits of Old High and Castle Fell to the southern boundary of Mabbin Crag’s forest.

Grayrigg Forest trig point

Whinfell Beacon summit

The way through the forest was easy to follow but very wet and muddy in places.  Emerging from the trees, I saw an old stone hut which although looked in reasonably sturdy condition, had a roof that had seen better days.  A little bit of work would make this a better bothy than some I know of.  The way to the top of Mabbin Crag was clear of trees as was the continuation to Ashstead Fell.

Mabbin Crag "bothy"

Rocky ground is in short supply on the ridge but the well-trodden path leading to the summit of Ashstead Fell followed a narrow rake through the short rock band.  Definitely a scramble, albeit an easy one, this was the day’s only clear opportunity to get hands on rock.  A relaxing stroll followed as the weather improved before the descent to Borrow Beck was reached.

I had a long rest at the Borrow Beck stepping stones before making quick progress up the Breasthigh Road to reach Borrowdale Edge.  This ridge is much less undulating than its southern counterpart and has a wide-open feel to it.

Whinash is the first significant summit east of Breasthigh Road but its featureless and flat top does little to inspire.  However Winterscleugh has terrain that is more deserving of “summit” status, with its small outcrop, modest cairn and super views across to Cross Fell and neighbouring northern Pennines.

Winterscleugh summit looking towards Cross Fell

Winterscleugh was the final of the day’s Fellrangers and also marked my second completion!  There was no celebration and because I was tired I decided to drop to the valley floor at the earliest convenient point which turned out to be the bridleway at the col below Belt Howe, from where I took a fairly direct line down to Borrow Beck and started along the track back towards the Lune Gap.

A 2019 Summary

At the start of 2019 I had 441 summits on my combined ticklist of TRAIL 100, Nuttall, WASHIS, Simpson, Dawson, Dewey, Moss, Wright, Bridge and Buxton & Lewis summits.

The year was another in which ambition exceeded activity, although the start of the year showed some promise.  After April, no targeted summits were ticked and only a few “boots on” days happened after then.

Overall I :

            went on             9                                  walks

            walked              68.9                              miles

            ascended          17,890                          feet

            walked for         44 hrs 24 mins            (including rest stops !)

            reached            20                                 individual summits that I hadn’t been to before

            reached            6                                   individual summits that I had been to before

            reached            15                                 summits on my combined ticklist

            reached            1                                   previously unclimbed TRAIL 100 summits

            reached            5                                   previously unclimbed Nuttall summits

            drove                2195                             miles on trips to and from walks

I’ve detailed this in previous blogs but this year saw the removal of the Moss, Simpson and Wright summits from my ticklist.  This resulted in a list with 146 fewer summits!

The most significant or memorable walks included Pendle Hill, a traverse of the Howgills, Arenig Fach and Sàil Mhòr in Scotland.

All of this meant that after removals and my walks, my ongoing ticklist decreased from 441 to 280 summits.

A Carneddau Meander

The rising footpath southwest out of Abergwyngregyn that joins the North Wales Path turned out to be a good warm up.  We continued in the sunshine the highpoint of the path and then took a rising traverse line to join the footpath that curved around the southwest flank of Moel Wnion.  Although there was a breeze, it was surprisingly warm.

At the col between Moel Wnion and the Drosgl ridge we decided to head down towards Aber Falls rather than take aim for Drosgl.  It was mid-afternoon and it was apparent that continuing would put us at risk of walking back in the dark and more importantly, missing the 4'o'clock closing time of the café!

We saw two motorbike scramblers who had come down from the top of Moel Wnion and they made short work of the northwest slopes of Drosgl.  Although envious of their rapid progress, the noise somewhat spoilt the ambience.  The ponies and sheep close to track of the scramblers seemed to agree as we could clearly see them running away from the disturbance.

From the col, Drosgl was the obvious summit ahead and the top of Gryn Wigau at the end of the shoulder was clear but not particularly prominent.  Bera Mawr, although set back behind Drosgl, showed off its castellated top.  Sometimes, actually being at a place to view the lie of the land can make sense of terrain in a way that studying maps doesn't.  I still have these Nuttall summits to tick and this recce gave me a good preview of that future route.

We followed the Afon Garn down to rejoin the North Wales Path and took some photos of the Aber Falls.  The walk out was easy and I was surprised by the number of day-trippers on the path, despite the sunny skies and warm weather.

Reaching Caffi Yr Hen Felin with time to spare, I indulged with a hot chocolate and a big slice of delicious Victoria sponge cake rounding off a relaxing post-Christmas day out.

The TRAIL 100 – 12 new summits

In the January 2020 issue of TRAIL magazine, it was announced that in the February 2020 issue (published in December 2019) there would be a feature about the TRAIL 100 list – "THE UK'S ULTIMATE MOUNTAIN TICK-LIST".  I thought that it would be a revisit of the original list first published in the April 2007 issue but looking at the teaser list of mountains I noticed that Slioch was included; Slioch wasn't on the original list.

I Googled "TRAIL 100" which returned the Live For The Outdoors website and I followed the link.  I wasn't expecting anything new on that page as TRAIL magazine generally doesn't populate links until after the relevant issue has been published.  But this time I was in luck – the "new" TRAIL 100 list was there in its (almost) entirety.  There were 99 mountains listed; the missing entry was Slieve Donard in Northern Ireland but this was just an oversight which Oli Reed (TRAIL’s editor) confirmed after I tweeted him.

The new list had changed – 12 summits had been removed from the list and replaced by 12 new ones.

The 12 summits that are no longer on the list are:

            Beinn Tarsuinn                         Arran

            Bleaklow Head                         Peak District

            Cadair Berwyn                          Berwyns

            Cairn Toul                                 Cairngorms

            Clougha Pike                            Lancashire

            High Pike                                  Lake District – Northern Fells

            High Raise                                Lake District – Central Fells

            Hound Tor                                 Dartmoor

            Loughrigg Fell                          Lake District – Central Fells

            Moel Ysgyfarnogod                  Rhinogs

            Rhobell Fawr                             Arenigs

            Worcestershire Beacon           Malverns

Of the 12, I have already ticked 8:

            Bleaklow Head, Cadair Berwyn, Clougha Pike, High Pike, High Raise, Hound Tor

            Loughrigg Fell & Worcestershire Beacon.

3 of the 4 unticked old summits are on my own ticklist either as Nuttalls (Moel Ysgyfarnogod & Rhobell Fawr) or as a Scottish 4000-foot summit (Cairn Toul).  I will keep Beinn Tarsuinn on my ticklist; I'll be able to tick it when I head to Arran to tick Goatfell.

The 12 summits that have been added to the updated list are:

            Ben Lawers                              Scottish Highlands – Loch Tay

            Ben More                                  Scottish Highlands – Crianlarich

            Braeriach                                  Cairngorms

            Cat Bells                                   Lake District – North Western Fells

            Crib Goch                                 Snowdon

            Ill Bell                                        Lake District – Far Eastern Fells

            Pen yr Ole Wen                        Carneddau

            Slioch                                        Scottish Highlands – Letterewe Forest

            The Devil's Point                      Cairngorms

            Y Garn                                       Glyderau

            Yr Aran                                      Snowdon

            Yr Eifl                                        Lleyn Peninsula

Of these 12, I have already ticked 6:

            Cat Bells, Crib Goch, Ill Bell, Pen yr Ole Wen, Y Garn & Yr Aran.

Only 1 of the 6 unticked new summits is already on my own ticklist as a Scottish 4000-foot summit – Braeriach.  All 5 of Ben Lawers, Ben More, Slioch, The Devil's Point & Yr Eifl will be added to my ticklist.

My ticklist includes the (old) TRAIL 100 summits and I had stood on the top of 64 of them.  Now that the list has been updated, that total has decreased to 62!

Overall I think that the updated list has a greater validity than the old.  The Lake District fells that have gone won’t be missed although Loughrigg Fell will have its supporters.  To me, Bleaklow is just a big peaty mess and Clougha Pike should never have been included as one of the UK’s 100 “finest”.

For those added to the list, I’m sure that people will be able to debate the inclusion of each of them.  I wouldn’t have chosen Pen yr Ole Wen but Slioch is probably the most deserving addition – I’m looking forward to visiting it.

However, whether the mountains listed deserve their place or not, I’ll be aiming to complete both the old and new versions of the TRAIL 100 list.  This means 112 summits and as I have already climbed 70 of them, I only need 42 to finish the task.

An Alternative Outdoor Walk

On the morning after the club’s Christmas Dinner night before, a lot of us had expected rain and the sunshine had taken us by surprise, although the steady wind made sure over 30 of us were warmly wrapped up and sporting beanies with some even feeling the need for gloves.  We set off from Outdoor Alternative in Rhoscolyn – the scene of the previous evening's feasting and dancing – towards Borthwen Bay and then turned eastwards to follow the coastal paths above the cliffs.

The wind had a significant influence on the sea meeting the coastline with many inlets being full of sea foam, formed not by pollutants but by the churning of organic material in the water.  Walking along the tops of the cliffs was rewarded with some spectacular views as the obvious swell and waves produced an impressive show of massive sprays, reaching far above the cliffs.  The wind made it difficult to stand steady enough to get photos of the erupting water but I managed to capture some reasonable images.

stormy seas

Reaching the end of the cliffs at Silver Bay set the scene for a stop for snacks and a chat before heading up through the pinewoods, enjoying the shelter that the trees afforded from the wind, before following the quiet lanes back to Cerig-yr-adar.