“Sentries’
Ridge is certainly more serious than many Moderate or Difficult climbs, and can
only sensibly be recommended to competent mountaineers.” (1)
“Craig
y Bera does offer good views and interesting features to those able to cope with
the capricious nature of the rock, which can be loose on both large and small
scales.” (2)
“An
ability to judge rock quality is more important than technical expertise.” (3)
“The
huge screes below the cliffs indicate clearly enough the loose and fragile
nature of these unfrequented rocks.” (4)
Over
the years I have come across a number of references to Sentries’ Ridge on
Mynydd Mawr but although most of them extol the adventure of this big-mountain
route, all of them make specific note of the lack of quality of the rock. And with good reason.
Following
the track through the Beddgelert forest, we easily reached the open hillside
and walked up Mynydd Mawr’s east ridge to the treeline before traversing to the
start of the route at the bottom of Craig y Bera. We donned harnesses and helmets and started
the ridge up the faint path through the heather. As the heather gave way to rock and incline
to verticality, I called for a rope. We
split into three teams of two and made our way up, placing gear when a good
placement presented itself, which wasn’t often.
 |
| Walk-in to Craig y Bera |
We
bypassed a pinnacle on the left – this was the route’s crux – and although the
moves were straightforward, the exposure was significant and the consequences
of a fall serious. For the length of the
route the rock definitely lived down to its reputation. Huw Gilbert’s blog about the route adds some
drama to the dangers of loose rock !
I
read a few guidebooks to research the route before I stepped foot on it and
there was no consensus about its grade, with opinions ranging from a grade 2
scramble, through 3 and 3S to a Diff rock climb !
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| Snowdon & Yr Aran from Sentries' Ridge |
The
good weather highlighted the vista – from Snowdon and Yr Aran to the full
length of the Nantlle ridge and seawards to the Rivals. At the top of the ridge we decided on a
fast-and-light dash to the top of Mynydd Mawr, stashing the rucksacks in the
heather. The good views got better summit
and even the summit of Tryfan could be seen over the col between Y Garn and
Glyder Fawr.
 |
| Nantlle ridge from Sentries' Ridge |
On
a sunny bank holiday weekend we had manged to have an adventurous route to
ourselves and basked in the smug self-congratulation on avoiding the inevitable
bank holiday crowds on Snowdon, just over four miles away.
For
anyone considering the ridge, harnesses and helmets are a must, but there is no
need for rock shoes – stiff boots will serve you well. Some big slings and a selection of nuts will
be adequate for protection, but we thought that 2 or 3 mid-sized cams would
have helped. And take a rope of a decent
length; 25 metres isn’t enough – consider something at least 40 metres long and
it will keep the belays to a minimum.
(1) quoted from “The Ridges of England Wales and Ireland”
author Dan Bailey
publisher Cicerone Press (2009)
(2) quoted from “Cwm Silyn & Cwellyn”
authors Paul Jenkinson & Bob Wightman
publisher The Climbers’ Club (2003)
(3) quoted from “Scrambles in Snowdonia”
author Steve Ashton
publisher Cicerone Press (2010)
(4) quoted from “Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia”
authors Jon Sparks, Tom Hutton, Jerry Rawson
publisher Grey Stone Books (2005)
