I
hadn’t been on a big Welsh hill for over three years so it was about time to
seek some Cymric solitude.
Which made the decision to climb the biggest mountain in Wales that I hadn’t previously been on an easy one, especially as I had been looking at this route for a long time. Aran Fawddwy is one of those British peaks that is higher than everything south of it which gives it a certain, if little known, esoteric cachet.
Starting at the village of Llanuwchllyn at the south-west end of Llyn Tegid (Lake Bala) a good track meanders under Garth Fach before a footpath bears left to gain the omnipresent ridge under Garth Fawr. Rising steadily, the path can be followed directly but this lessens the adventure as the lower summits would be bypassed so it is worth taking some short detours to add to the day’s achievements and to enjoy some more expansive views over Cwm Croes. I’ll admit that I ignored Moel Ddu but Moel Ffenigl was a pleasant distraction before strolling along the top of Craig y Llyn towards the imposing rise of Pen-aran.
Some classic foreshortening made this look steep and although the contours tightened, it was an easy enough slope to climb. The reward from Pen-aran’s summit was the impressive view of Aran Benllyn and the walk’s ultimate destination of Aran Fawddwy. The panorama from south-west around to the north gave me the chance to test my limited knowledge of the names of the peaks in view, from Cadair Idris, past the Rhinogs to Rhobell Fawr and Dduallt and finally turning to Arenig Fawr.
Aran Fawddwy & Aran Benllyn from Pen-aran summit
Aran Fawddwy & Aran Benllyn
I
had seen a couple of family groups on the lower slopes but they didn’t continue
on to the higher ridgeline. It was on Pen-aran
that I met the first of only nine other fellow walkers that I saw on the higher
ground on this bank holiday Monday. No
doubt there would have been people queuing up to touch the trig on Snowdon
summit but even though I wasn’t alone for all of the day, I still found some solitude
on one of the country’s highest and most interesting summits.
The half mile from Pen-aran to Aran Benllyn is one of the finest stretches of walking I’ve ever done. It’s over easy ground but the view ahead towards Aran Fawddwy is magnificent. From Aran Benllyn you pass over the intermediate summit of Erw y Ddaffad ddu before tackling the rocky summit slopes of the peak that has been tantalisingly in view for a lot of the ascent.
Aran Fawddwy from Aran Benllyn summit
Pen-aran & Llyn Tegid from Aran Benllyn summit
The
summit trig point appears to be perched precariously at the very highest point
and reaching it rewards you with a vista that demands you take some time to
appreciate it fully. I had walked over
five miles and ascended about 3,500 feet to get here so I succumbed to gazing
at the surrounding mountains.
Aran Benllyn from Aran Fawddwy summit
Suddenly
it felt like a long way back to the car – it was – but every step was a
pleasant reminder that this less popular mountain deserves the appreciation
that those who stride its slopes must surely understand.
